Open Mind, Open Palate

Unless I’m going to see a Broadway show, I try to avoid Times Square and the theatre district like the plague. Too many people, too much commercialism, and a bevy of chain restaurants. Boo! So when Behind the Burner asked me to do a media meal at Café Un Deux Trois on West 44^th, I was little nervous. Not only would I have to head into my least favorite part of the city, but also face the possibility of eating tasteless, ill-prepared food that is often served at pre-theatre dinner restaurants. But for an unemployed food lover, a free meal is a free meal; and any meal is another food experience to be had, whether good or bad. Luckily, my dinner at Café Un Deux Trois qualified under the "good" food experience bracket, and even put my theater district restaurant prejudice to shame.

The restaurant itself is a quiet, romantic spot--a nice relief from the hustle and bustle right outside. Dark wood floors and walls, old school chandeliers, and colorful stained glass behind the bar created a sexy French vibe à la 1920s. I felt like I should be smoking one of those long cigarettes while having some intellectual conversation en français.

The service was magnifique: attentive and friendly, without being overbearing. However, the service was the one thing that did not ring true to French cuisine and restaurant culture. As two Americans dining in France (Paris especially) we would have been rushed out as quickly as possible, or simply ignored.

Despite this French arrogance, I've always been drawn to French culture. The French really do possess a certain "je ne sais quoi". Café Un Deux Trois possessed all the "je ne sais quoi" of the French without their signature vanity.

What most defined that undefinable French quality at Café Un Deux Trois was the food. To start, I had the Salade de Cresson: a watercress salad with hearts of palm, apples, and walnuts. Apples and walnuts are a classic combination in salads, but the watercress and hearts of palm added an unexpected and elegant twist. Keenan, my guest, had the beef carpaccio for the 1st course. I did not try it, but he said it was quite good. (Keenan can be quite particular about his food, so I trust his judgment).

For my entrée I had one of the specials, Tilapia Provençal: tilapia sautéed with olives, capers, grape tomatoes and garlic. The olives, capers, and grape tomatoes gave it those traditional Mediterranean, Provençal flavors. The tilapia had a nice crust, but was still moist and flaky.

Keenan had the Boeuf Bourguignon --a signature dish of the French: stewed beef tips in a red wine sauce with mushrooms and potatoes. This dish I did try, and it left me wishing I had

ordered the same. The beef was so tender, and the sauce was so thick and flavorful. A perfect hearty meal for a rainy, chilly night.

Of course, you cannot have a real French meal without dessert. Keenan and I split profiteroles--another traditional French dessert, and a longtime personal favorite. Vanilla ice cream

sandwiched between three perfectly flaky pastry rounds, topped with rich Belgian chocolate sauce and toasted almonds. I am convinced that you could put chocolate sauce on just about anything and it would taste good, but this really was la pièce de résistance! Keenan doesn't have half the

sweet tooth I do, but we both fought for the last bite.

Keenan and I left quite full, satisfied, and pleasantly surprised. Who knew authentic, classy French cuisine could exist in the touristy theatre district? Last night's exceptional dinner at Café Un Deux Trois showed me that holding restaurant prejudices can lead one to miss out on a great place. You never know what culinary gem you'll find in the midst of New York; so always keep an open, unassuming mind. Now if only the French could learn to do the same...